Molded Speaker Cabinet
Saturday, August 28th, 2010
I used Monster XP Speaker Wire behind crown molding, all drivers are in a channel CordMate Wiremold (4-wire in the channel running at 4 Wall Speakers – was a perfect fit and I had plenty of channels left over from another project. At some point I had to make them fall behind the wall that would be easy to connect into the cabinet. So I was able to do that with just two cuts in drywall (yes!) That is behind cabinet. I heard that if it's behind the wall should I use UL. Therefore, I wonder if there is a problem with a damaged cord (approximately 6 meters lower back of the box and behind the wall? In addition, they ask about performance problems? I have still time to lock in a canal behind the wall, but I'm lazy now.
Start out by consulting local fire and building codes for exact specifications. If you are running speaker wire into the wall, you must select a type that is UL-classified and labeled either CL2 or CL3 (Class 2 or Class 3, respectively). These designations ensure that cable has been tested extensively for the current heat generation based on flammability and susceptibility to damage, and that Underwriters Laboratories has given its seal of approval safety for consumers use and wall mounting. PER MONSTER: Monster XP: exposed wires running (not the wall) Monster XP CI: wall runs As performance, 14-16 wire gauge should be sufficient. But everything depends on its power and length of runs. 16 gauge is standard. As it is Monster, his face, and only paying for the name. But at the same time, unless you have some crazy expensive equipment, just speaker wire speaker wire.
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